Traveling with Two Hearts

Perhaps it is always the case that when a Jew travels in Europe, one travels simultaneously with two minds. Or more correctly, with two hearts.
Of the first mind, here is an amazing vacation filled with everything one could desire, and for which I am grateful. We cycled and cruised the Danube from Prague to Budapest, enjoying river paths and forests, orchards and vineyards, castles and medieval forts, small villages and impressive cities. Jonathan and I enjoyed the fellowship of other cyclists, great food, and a Mozart concert.

And in the other chamber of my heart, there are the unstoppable thoughts. What is the Jewish history of this place?
The answers were not completely absent from the week. We spent Shabbat in Prague with my friend and colleague, Rabbi Ron Hoffberg and the Masorti community there. Before Shabbat, Rabbi Hoffberg gave us a tour of the Jewish quarter. We saw four synagogues including the New Old Synagogue, the Jewish cemetery, and the stairs to the attic where the Golem is locked away. We viewed Prague from the perspective of the Jewish history there.

Once we joined our bike tour group, there was still acknowledgment of Jewish presence. In every historical explanation by a guide, there would be a mention: Franz Joseph was a strong protector of the Jews. All of these apartment buildings were inhabited by Jews who were welcomed into Linz for their merchant and banking skills. Sigmund Freud was a prized son of Vienna until “World War II forced him to leave.” See this statue of Princess Sisi and that of the great liberator of Vienna, Jan Sabieski – oh, and here is the representation of a Jew forced to clean the cobblestones with a tiny brush, very sad”. “Over here was a very large Jewish ghetto and around the corner is Bratislava’s Memorial to the Jews.”

The monologue in my mind offered quite a different tour:
Consider this quaint village. Did they round up their Jews or hide them?
Cycle in a windy, cold downpour through the Bavarian forests. How did Jewish refugees ever get warm when they were on the run?
Admire the large and prospering farm along the bike path. Did Jews hide in the barn or the haystacks?
The interior of this abbey is inspiring. Did the nuns here hide Jewish children or turn them in? View the sweeping interior of yet another Catholic Church. I wonder what the priests taught their parish about the Jews.

I thought that I was alone in these thoughts. But yesterday, our group had a walking tour of Budapest, and were guided to the haunting sculpture Shoes along the Danube. These bronze shoes are a memorial to the Budapest Jews who were rounded up at the very end of the War, and shot and killed at the edge of the Danube where the river turned red with their blood. Afterward, many members of our group came to just give me a hug or ask a question. I felt held and understood by very good human beings.

Last night, our guides asked everyone to share a highlight of the week. People spoke about cycling up a very hard mountain pass, or riding through the vineyards to a wine tasting. One of my fellow travelers began his memory by reflecting that we should all take seriously the sculpture of the shoes that we had seen earlier that day. He said that we are privileged to be able to travel the world, but we should be mindful that we are living in dark times. We should remember the fellowship of our travelers and live our lives to prove that kindness is stronger than hate.
In his few meaningful words, the two simultaneous travelers in my mind and heart united as one.
Wherever you are and whatever you are enjoying this summer, remember the superpower of kindness.
Rabbi Paula Mack Drill